The perfect way to catch a wave, according to science
While professional surfers might not need science to know how to catch a wave, the physics of the ocean can still be useful. Physicists officially identified the surfing “sweet spot”, where surfers need to get in order to reach the fastest speeds and enjoy the best ride, according to MNN.
“Based upon the speed and geometry of the wave, you can determine the conditions to surf a wave and also where on the wave the maximum acceleration, or ‘sweet spot’, will be located,” said avid surfer and lead researcher Nick Pizzo.
The sweet spot can be found in the curl of a breaking wave. For maximum forward motion, the surfboard needs to be travelling along at the same speed of the wave. By finding it, scientists can gain a better understanding of the energy interchange between the atmosphere and the ocean. When waves break, they create currents and water droplets in the form of sea spray that gets thrown up into the atmosphere. By adding all these up, scientists can model larger weather events. “We need to understand the little things to get the big picture,” said Pizzo.
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“The study was motivated by important scientific questions that lead to a better description of the upper ocean to be used in weather and climate models,” he added. “By studying the acceleration of a theoretical surfer on a wave, we can provide a better description of the currents generated by breaking waves, leading to an improved understanding of the momentum and energy budget between the atmosphere and ocean.”
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